The Dummyloads

Where ham brains come to fry

Where ham brains come to fry

Equipment

My Rig Expert AA-230 Broke!

When I was evaluating who I was going to purchase my Rig Expert from, I spent some time studying up on which vendor I should buy from.  You can get them from DX Engineering, PNC Engineering, Amazon, Giga Parts, etc.  I chose to order from PNC Engineering because of this statement from their website. (italics added for emphasis)

Why Buy From PNC Engineering?

PNC Engineering covers all RigExpert Analyzers under our United States “in-house” warranty center. Out of warranty repairs may also be contracted through PNC Engineering. RigExpert products purchased from other vendors must be serviced in Canada or in the Ukraine where RigExpert Analyzers are manufactured. This will require the customer to pay the shipping costs of their product to one of those out of country locations. With PNC Engineering your shipping expenses are considerably less, and shipping times much faster due to our ‘local’ U.S. location. 

I mentioned in my initial assessment of the analyzer that it had given me infinite readings initially.  Being a newb to this tool, I just assumed that I had neglected to fasten the N to SO-239 adapter correctly.  I finally got it to give me a flat reading on a dummy load and was happy with the measurements.

My friend Myron WV0H mailed me a few N adapters and 50 ohm loads.  No longer would I need to do SO-239 to PL-259 to BNC.  The adapter stack was getting out of control. . . So I connected the N to SMA and an SMA 50 ohm load.  Infinite SWR.  Hmmm. . .  Well, the loads are ham fest deals so maybe its a dud.  Lets try another.

Infinite.

OK. . . lets do a dummy load I know works.  So I do the N to BNC adapter.  Then a short coax jump to my dummy load.

Infinite.

OK. . . lets do a known adapter stack that has worked previously.

Your guess is correct.  Infinite!

Then I started loosening the threads on the N connector and I got an accurate reading.  Hmmm. . . this is not good.

**********Do NOT EVER do what I am about to do***********

I turn off the machine.  I take the adapter stack off and look down into the N connector.  All looks normal.  I then take a screw driver and make contact with the center pin.  It moves!!  It moves a lot and I am not putting any effort into touching it.

******You CAN DO everything below this line safely************

So I fire off an email to PNC Engineering.  They send back a form letter that is intimidating.  I kindly respond with the situation and assure them I’m going to mail this thing back for repair under warranty.  A few pages of paperwork and $20 in mailing and insurance later, the device is in the mail to California.

A few days go by and I get a confirmation they received it.  The next day I get a note that they are going to repair it under warranty and send me a new one.  I am looking forward to it arriving!

So. . . I’m hear to tell you that PNC Engineering is good to their word.  (Although the shipping time is a week)  It’s possible I could have just returned it via Amazon and bought another.  Maybe I’m not getting a great deal since I had to pay shipping.  I really like the device and have LOTS of plans to measure stuff and report back!

KF5RY

Connecting the KX3 to a computer for Digital operation. (using Signalink)

Look in any hamshack today and you’re gonna be hard pressed not to find a computer sharing space with the tranceiver. We them for, most importantly, buying equipment, but also for logging QSOs, looking up someone’s details from their callsign, looking for active DX spots…

OR, operating digitally! In this first episode of a series on operating digitally, we’ll begin by hooking up a SignaLink to an Elecraft KX3….

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Rig Expert AA-230 Zoom

For sometime I have had a MFJ-259B that I had purchased from an SK estate.  I have treasured the device for a number of reasons.  I knew what I had paid for the device was helping that ham’s family and I felt like I needed to honor his memory by using the analyzer.  Use it I did!  KB5NJD even helped me mod it so it would give us readings down to 470 kHz and I could tune my 630M antenna.  As my knowledge has improved, I came to find that there are a lot of things this model of antenna analyzer does not do and that made me think about getting a different device.

One:  It doesn’t resolve the sign of X.  i.e. is my load inductive or capacitive?  W2AEW has a great video on how you can actually resolve the sign of X using a smith chart using an MFJ 259B style analyzer.

Two:  The oscillator in the machine is not particularly stable in my opinion.  i.e. what freq I was measuring was in doubt by up to 20hz.  This isn’t a deal killer for measuring impedance in the field, but is frustrating in a lab environment.

Three:  The freq. knob is too sensitive in my opinion.  I suppose it makes sense given the tuning range within each band the analyzer covers, but I wanted a little more precision.

Four:  All it provides is Freq (approximate as noted above), SWR, R and X (unresolved whether it is positive or negative.)

Again — As a new amateur, it is perfectly adequate as an antenna analyzer.  But I wanted something a bit more capable.  As it turns out a friend has an AA-600.  He was showing me his conventional transformers and how he could measure the frequency response with the AA-600.  Not only will it define the sign of X, this thing draws a Smith Chart.  It will auto sweep over the entire spectrum of the oscillator enabled on your machine.  You can do live measurements where it will show you the rectangular format of impedance and the vector form of impedance.  This is a genuine scientific instrument.

Now the question is what frequencies should I cover?  I genuinely only have an interest in HF, BUT satellite contacts are interesting. . . and I’ve recently started doing some VHF fox hunts with a local club.  At some point I’d really like to build some kind of 2M yagi.  If I was doing satellite contacts, it would be ideal to have a 440 beam as well, but the cost differential and the likely hood I would ACTUALLY build such a thing. . . I’ll probably just by a satellite antenna, it’ll be close enough.  🙂

If I decide I really want to experiment at 440 MHz I can always up grade later.

 

KF5RY

Where Does The High Voltage Come From In Mag Loops?

For a long time I have wondered WHY do people always scream a warning at you if you plan on using a small magnetic loop.  “Be careful, there is a lot of voltage across the capacitor!”  yeah, yeah. . . OK, whatever. . . I’ll be careful.

But Why?!?

I asked a number of friends.  I heard a lot of explanations.  The one that stood out to me was that a mag loop acts like a auto transformer.  uhh. . . I’m sure someone reading this is going, “yeah!”  You could have told me that it has to do with a wind storm on Mars and particle entanglement.  This seemed just as plausible to me.

…

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WSPRlite. What it is and how to use it. (with the ZM-2 Tuner)

This episode we’re talking about the WSPRlite flexi.

https://www.sotabeams.co.uk/wsprlite-antenna-tester/

Now this is a cool little device made by the folks over at SotaBeams in the UK that lets you test your antenna’s actual transmit propagation in real time. It uses the WSPR protocol (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) originally developed by Joe Taylor K1JT. (Quite an interesting guy, you should look him up.) Now WSPR is open source and still actively worked on. Please find relevant links below.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WSPR_(amateur_radio_software)

http://physics.princeton.edu/pulsar/K1JT/wspr.html

http://wsprnet.org/

I’m not going to tell you how to install the support software, as that’s all very well documented when you buy the unit. The point of this episode is just to go over what it does. So, let’s go straight into the setup app where you can update the firmware and set up the device for operation.

After you plug the WSPRlite in to the computer, pick the correct COM port and click CONNECT.

Every so often, I click Update firmware, to make sure it’s current.

Then, enter your callsign and first 4 digits of your QTH locator. Currently WSPRnet only uses the first 4.

Honestly, I’m not sure what the CW callsign checkbox is for, so I ignore it. If you know, please post in the comments below and share your knowledge.

Choose the band you wish to test. Once you pick a band, it will pick a random frequency in the WSPR accepted range.

The flexi version of the WSPRlite has lowpass filters for 20 & 30 meter bands built in. You may need to get some external lowpass filters for any other band you wish to test, depending upon where you are operating from. The WSPRlite will work without them, but you may end up operating out of bounds depending upon your location. Something to keep in mind. I don’t have any other lowpass filters yet, but they’re on the way if I need them.

Then, pick your power output. I’ve just been leaving it at the default 200 mW which, when using the WSPR protocol is equivalent to 1000 watts of SSB. I’m not using an external amplifier, so I leave the Reported power at it’s default.

They suggest leaving the Repeat rate at 30%, so that you’re not hogging the frequency every minute. I’ve also left the Max runtime at it’s default of 3 days.

At the bottom is a very important link. This will send you to your own, personal DXplorer.net report page for your specific device. We’ll get to that later, for now, go ahead and click Open in browser, then, when it opens, bookmark that link. I think it will generate a new link per band.

Lastly, go back up and click Save WSPR Settings.

That’s it, you’re done. Unplug the device and let’s get set up to transmit.

I use my radio power supply,…

… and plug it into the SotaBeams Power Conditioner. When I didn’t use this, the power supply generated an ugly buzz in the transmission. So, I bought this conditioner as a kit, and haven’t had an issue since.

Plug it into the WSPRlite

Connect the feed line…

Which goes to my Emtech ZM-2 QRP tuner which I’ve posted a pictorial write-up on the build previously, see that link below.

http://dummyloads.com/emtech-zm-2-tuner-build/

Then attach the antenna to the Tuner.

Wait for 2 seconds past the minute on my atomic clock….

aaaand press the button to start transmission.

On the ZM-2, flip the switch to TUNE and fiddle with the knobs until the light goes out, or as dim as possible. If you turn the knobs to the stops and the light stays bright, try Adding picoFarads and keep trying. I took my time here. At 200 mW, I wasn’t too worried about overheating anything. When done, flip the left switch to Operate which takes the LED out of the circuit and give you the least resistance on the line.

Done, you’re now transmitting. Give it a while to transmit for a few minutes, and then go to the above mentioned DXplorer.net link you got from the setup app.

The DX10 Table shows you a list of your best 10, in range every 2 minutes or so.

The Graph is a visual representation of the data points of all your connections. In every report, you can choose a time frame snapshot.

The Spots map is … well, self explanatory.

The Spots table shows you all your spots, most recent on top.

If you’ve tested on other bands, you can swap over to them here.

And there you have it. This is a very useful bit of kit that lets you see just how well your antenna is working based on it’s configuration and current propagation conditions. For around $80 and it’s diminutive size and weight, I highly recommend it. You get a very accurate, real-time picture of how long your radio’s arms are at that moment. Especially in our current solar minimums, it’s quite handy to test out where you can reach.

If this video was helpful in any way, please, give us a thumbs up. If you have any questions on the WSPRlite flexi, please post them below. I’m no real expert, but I’ll be happy to get back to you with what I know.

Thanks for watching the DummyLoads. See y’all next time.

Emtech ZM-2 Tuner Build

After buying a WSPRLite I decided I needed a QRP antenna tuner. I was first looking at the QRP Kits SOTA tuner, but after a recommendation I took a look at Emtech’s ZM-2. I looked at a couple others, but after reading a bunch of Eham.net Reviews, the ZM-2 looked to be the best choice for me. The ZM-2 comes as a relatively easy kit, so what follows are some pics of my build. I followed the instructions and the video advice from W5CYF.

Keep in mind, I’m not very good at soldering… yet, so be kind.

The Kit

Start by winding the toroids.

This was an easier process than I thought it was going to be. Even the little one, I was a bit concerned that I was going to snap the little wire, but it snugged up nicely. I gotta say, I don’t like soldering the heat removable coating on the little wire. I was never sure it was hot enough to melt and get a good connection. I also read the instructions wrong and didn’t leave enough red wire on the large toroid, and so had to create a pigtail for that end. There was plenty of wire in the kit, so that wasn’t a problem in the end.

Setting up the LED

I ended up having to go buy some helping hands and a head mount magnifier to do this part, which worked out for later parts as well. My eyes ain’t what they used to be apparently.

Attaching the front face decal, after spraying 4 coats of Krylon.

Installing the Faceplate.

Here are the switches, connectors, and variable capacitors installed. If you build one of these, don’t attach the right poly cap knob until after you screw the faceplate into the box. The right-bottom screw ends up being under that knob by half a screw width.

 Final Components and wiring.

The area near the two main switches was a bit fiddly and mine looks ugly, but there’s no shorts.

Final Product

It seems to work, but there’s some issues I don’t understand yet. I put out an email to Emtech, but never got a reply. I’ll try calling them. Y’all can expect a video of it in action in the very near future.

How To Set Up a Park Portable Doublet

We had our park outing and I took some time to make a video on how to set up the park portable doublet.  If you have any questions on how to set it up or make your own, let me know in the comments below.

Project 1: Mission Accomplished

I said that I was going to do some homebrewing and I am.  You will see posts about that soon.  While I was waiting for parts to arrive, I have a few other projects that need to be addressed.  Project 1 is installing a Heil FS-2 foot switch for my Kenwood TS-590SG.

 

Steve — Why on earth do you need a foot switch?  Valid Question.

For the last few years I have been operating on 630M as an extension of the experimental license for KB5NJD.  As WG2XIQ/1 I’ve had a lot of fun chatting with John in the early morning hours doing CW.  Work got really busy for about a year and I got away from the habit of early morning QSOs.  Now that work is relatively sane, 630M is a real band I can operate as myself (KF5RY).  I figure not many people are on the band so I could be one of the early folks to either WAS or help someone get there.  As a result, I’m going to install an amplifier for 630M and drive that amp with my Kenwood TS-590SG.  With an external homebrew amplifier QSK is not really in the cards.  So I need a foot switch.

For my birthday I acquired the foot switch from HRO in Plano and began looking through my Kenwood box for the 13 pin DIN connector for the ACC2 plug.  I also stopped by Tanner’s and picked up a 1/4″ female jack to convert the 1/4″ jack on the foot switch to the ACC 2 connector.  All I need to do is wire it together.

After studying the manual I found that I needed pin 13 for PTT and pin 8 for ground and I’d be in business.  I studied the pins and was sure to use the mirror image as I didn’t want to get fooled by the picture translating it to my connector.  At last I took the soldering iron and wired it all up, check for continuity and went to bed feeling pretty good about myself.

Have you caught my mistake yet?

In the morning I woke up and decided to actually test the plug, in the radio.  I plugged it in and turned on the radio.  All is fine.  I stomp the foot switch and nothing happens.  I push the manual switch on the front panel and nothing happens.  I push the PTT on the hand mike and nothing happens.

I unplug the connector and plug it back in.

The radio seems to be having a seizure.  It seems stuck somewhere between ready to transmit and not ready.  There is a lot of clacking and blinking lights.  Not good. . .

After a variety of testing scenarios and tinkering, I decide that it’s not a menu setting, its something I’ve wired wrong.  So I rewire the plug on the 1/4″ jack end.  I had become concerned that somehow I had bridged the center pin and the case . . . still have a problem.  I study the manual some more.  I read about the orientation of the pins and then I realize, while it is an image of the pins from the perspective of looking at the back of the radio.  If I solder the back of the connector, it’s actually NOT a mirror image.  You just orient the connector the same as the radio and solder.  OK — I move the solder pin 5 to actual pin 8.  Should work now.

BUT I have a new problem.

The radio seems to lock into the PTT state and I cannot get it to come out of the PTT state.  I take the foot switch plug out and all is well.  I plug-in a 1/4″ jack to 1/8″ stereo adapter and the problem goes away.  . . . Why did it go away when I put the adapter in?

I take a headlamp and shine it down into the body of the female jack and it dawns on me: This is a stereo female 1/4″ jack and the male plug from the foot switch is mono.  The ring and tip are wired together in the female jack.  The 1/4″ mono plug ground sleeve is completing the circuit when the foot switch is plugged in.  No wonder its stuck in a ready to transmit state!

I take apart my wiring and cut off the ring pin all together.  It is now floating inside the body of the connector and grounded to the foot pedal each time it is plugged in.  All works FB!

All of this took about 8 hours of messing with it, testing it, trying to isolate the problem, testing it again.  Turns out I had 2 problems, but I found them!

As promised I will be posting stories of failure.  Most learning occurs when you fail.  You can only fail if you’re doing stuff.

JD Reviews Chameleon Antenna’s CHA TD Lite

This is the perfect portable antenna for me. Apparently, I’m hard on antennas. I’ve managed to break my BuddiPole. I’ve fixed it, but I need something more robust. So, I started looking for something that could take a beating, is light, easily configurable, and can handle watt ranges from QRP to at least 100 watts. After much searching and research, I settled on the CHA TD Lite system from Chameleon Antennas.

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Yaesu VX-6R

I absolutely LOVE this little radio!  It is my first ham radio, and is what I used to make my first ever ham radio QSO with KD5LQD. If for no other reason that that, it has secured a soft spot in my heart forever.

However, there are plenty of other reasons to love this little guy. Little though it may be, it is absolutely packed with features and abilities. I’m using the Diamond NR770HNMO antenna on my car, and I did upgrade the rubber ducky (you’re the one) to the Diamond SRH320A.

On to the review.

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